Recently the team here at The Extravagant enjoyed the exclusive privilege of interviewing Senior Watch Specialist Penelope Morris, who heads the Bonhams Knightsbridge Watch department. Morris, who is an Associate of the British Horological Institute and a member of the Antiquarian Horological Society, has now worked for Bonhams for nearly a decade and has proven to be one of the most talented women in the watch industry. The knowledge possessed by Morris is vast to say the least with highlights of her career that include the sale of 2,000 watches that belong to a European aristocrat and the the sale of a Josiah Emery pocket watch for £117,500.
Read on to learn more about Morris’ guide to collecting, her passion for complicated women’s watches, and her busy schedule at Bonhams.
How did you first get involved in the world of horology? Was it a particular encounter with watches in your childhood, or through a family member or work?
“Straight after university I started working at an independent jeweller. Our on-site watchmaker Mike, as the only Rolex trained technician in the area, was inundated with work and so I used to help him with some of the basic repairs, such as battery changing and pressure testing, etc. His incredible generosity and patience with my questions is really what got me interested in horology and from there I joined Bonhams Watch Department just over eight years ago.“
Take us through a day in your life at the Bonhams Auctions Watch Department.
“The joy of working at an auction house is that no two days are the same – more often than not you really don’t know what watches you will be seeing and handling that day. Auctions work in cycles and, as we are always working on two to three sales at any one time, the work changes over the course of the year.
Today, I’m catching up with estimate enquiries that have come through by email over-night. We are fast approaching the deadline of our next auction, (Watches and Wristwatches, Knightsbridge, 18 February) so we are following up and reaching out for potential consignments to ensure we have an interesting and accessible collection to auction.
Throughout the day we have appointments scheduled with clients bringing in their watches to be valued. In both our New Bond St and Knightsbridge offices, we also have ‘walk in’ valuation clients who are passing by.
In between seeing these clients I’ll catalogue and inspect the watches already assigned as well as keeping tabs on our photographer who is halfway through shooting each watch ready for our designers to compile into a brochure next week. Meanwhile, I’ll run through everything to ensure we have all the I’s dotted and T’s crossed – everything from checking the contracts are correctly signed to liaising with the manufacturers for access to their archives.
As we are starting a new season, I will book my travel arrangements for our valuation days that we conduct across the world. I primarily focus on Spain, Italy, Scotland and other parts of the UK, but as a team we have representation and are active in most major cities or states across the world. We also host travelling exhibitions of our highlights for potential buyers, including in [places like] New York and Hong Kong.“
Tell us about some of the pieces that are in your personal collection.
“Ironically, my collection is very sparse – as many can identify with, when you first come out of college or university the dreams of owning that watch or that car or travelling to that exotic location get put on hold whilst ‘real life’ and paying the bills take front.
As time has gone by my dilemma has evolved. Now the issue is that there are just too many I would like! How do you settle on any of them when your job involves handling (and playing with) on average 30 different styles a day?
At Bonhams we auction timepieces from as far back as the 17th Century up to something that theoretically could have been manufactured last week – it makes narrowing down the choice very difficult indeed. The upside is that it allows for neutral first impressions when meeting clients – best to be judged on what you know than what you have on your wrist.“
What has your time in watch collecting and selling been like? Have there been any particularly memorable points or challenges along the way?
“Working in an auction house has to date been unlike anything else. One of the things I enjoy is that you get to meet people from all walks of life. Watches are a commodity which can be incredibly versatile and as such are one of the more accessible forms of collectibles. Not everyone has a grand villa filled to the brim with Renoirs, but more often than not there is always a watch lurking in a drawer if not already being enjoyed on someone’s wrist.
Some industries can be dominated by dealers but, for us, nearly 90 percent of all watches we sell in London come from private owners, with stories that can be absolutely fascinating.
One of my most memorable experiences was handling the sale of a single owner collection of 2000 watches. The logistics behind that project were extensive and although watches themselves don’t take up much space their accompanying boxes sure do. As part of that undertaking, we pioneered an entirely new Online Only sale platform for Bonhams as well as touring highlights from the collection around the world. It was a real eye opener into the different influences enthusiasts have while building up their collections, as well as demonstrating that beautiful watches can be found in all price brackets.“
Do you believe that your collecting philosophy has evolved? If so, how?
“Yes, for sure. When I started out in this industry, I was very young and it was easy to be distracted by the flashier names, who incidentally often have the bigger marketing budgets. Nowadays I am far more interested in smaller companies where they allow room for expression in their work rather than following an algorithm of what is likely to be the most profitable design. That is not to say, however, that I do not have an appreciation for the bigger brands – you don’t make it to the top for no reason and that deserves respect.”
What is the most impressive piece that you’ve come across at Bonhams and why?
“This is a tricky one –since starting at Bonhams I have been involved in the sale of just over 14,000 watches so it’s hard to pick just one….!
However, shortly after joining Bonhams, we offered for sale a private collection of amazing pocket watches. One that really stood out for me was a pair case by Johannis (or John) Thompson of York from circa 1665, which had the most delicate outer case made of silver filigree (a form of metal work made with tiny beads or twisted threads and stylised into artistic motifs). Coupled with this the dial had what are called ‘tumbling hours’, where the numerals look like they are, quite literally, tumbling down the dial – that analogy is one that has stuck with me and I just love the idea of it. For a watch just over 350 years (old) it was in impeccable condition and absolutely stunning.“
Do you have any special take on the demand that is growing for complicated women’s watches?
“As a female it can get boring when all the R&D conducted by the different brands leads to just putting some diamonds on a smaller version of something originally designed for a male audience. As such I think it is brilliant that there is a growing awareness that when designing a watch for women, they, just like men, want something that is just as interesting on the inside as it is on the outside.”
Any advice for women that are looking to start building a horologically savvy and balanced collection?
“Don’t be influenced by whether a watch is marketed in a gendered way – if you like it you like it. Once it is on your wrist it is no longer a male or female watch but your watch. Look at brands that were producing chronographs in the 50s, for me that was a period of really interesting development when the manufacturers were all experimenting. This is something that continued on into the 70s and can really offer you so much more variety for those looking for something a little different. Vintage watches also historically tend to be on the smaller side compared with their modern counterparts, so for a female [they] can be more accessible.“
Currently, what are some vintage pieces that have been capturing your attention?
“Last year we had the opportunity to offer for sale three spectacular Patek Philippes – references 1518, 530 and 1579 – all manufactured within a six-year window around 1950. Even after 70 years, their clean designs still resonate with today’s audience and are timeless blends of deceptively simple dials with complicated movements. I also have a thing for early Cartiers and I highly recommend a great new book by Francesca Cartier Brickell, one of the descendants of the original Cartiers, covering the history of the family.“
What is your advice for those who are looking to acquire a vintage watch?
“Do your research and be realistic – condition is a huge thing nowadays in the pre-owned market and replacement parts can cause you quite a bit of bother down the line if you are not careful. However, there is a balance – watches are mechanical objects, they are little machines and as such they need TLC to preserve them and keep them functioning. The desire for vintage watches only in perfect condition is increasingly only met with a deep pocket whilst those that have been sympathetically restored are getting increasingly overlooked. If you remain realistic and take them for what they are – a restored watch – you can still enjoy and obtain a great timepiece.
My other advice would be to browse the auctions, try the watches on and get a ‘feel’ for the watches physically. Auction houses are like interactive galleries where the exhibition regularly changes and if there isn’t anything that works for you in that sale there is always another one coming up. They are perfect for offering variety and getting a hands-on experience that you don’t necessarily get anywhere else.“
Where can we follow you?
“You can follow me on Instagram at both @pennymorris1 and @bonhamswatches“
Images courtesy of: Bonhams
