Paris Fashion Week Shows by Givenchy, Loewe, Berluti, Dior and Louis Vuitton highlighted a myriad range of fresh menswear. From the audacious to the practical; read on for an in depth look at some of this seasons most prominent menswear shows.
First and foremost we start off with a look at Givenchy’s collection, described as ‘lavish hedonism inspired by India‘ by parent company LVMH. Givenchy Artistic Director Clare Waight Keller gathered inspiration for the collection from Yashwant Rao Holkar II, the 14th Maharajah of Indore who moved to Los Angeles in the 1930s. The Maharajah who lived from 1908 to 1961 was well known for his eccentric tastes in clothing, which often consisted of traditional Indian or Western garb covered in an abundance of pearls, gemstones and precious metals. Distinct embroidery delivered on a canvas of overcoats, double breasted blazers, and slim suits are a staple in this year’s collection. Square toe boots and oversize sweaters along with the the Antigona Soft carry-all bag were also prominent aspects of Keller’s designs.
Loewe’s Fall/Winter collection spearheaded by Creatuve Director Jonathan Anderson is described by LVMH as ‘materials magnified by the opulence of shapes.’ Where textures and forms take center stage, satin and double face wool are paired in the most spectacular of fashions. The cut of the cloth gives a shape that is opulence in the purest of forms. Giant bags, cape style coats, and army shorts that appear like shorts are all hallmarks of the Loewe Fall/Winter 20/21 collection.
Berluti, the house that’s magical patinas give birth to the world’s most spectacular leather creations, has not disappointed with their collection debuted in the historic Opera Garnier. The show is best described as a ‘Generational dialogue’ where Berluti continues to evolve by boasting their tailoring skills alongside their mastery of shoe-making. Artistic director Kris Van Assche has assembled a collection where historic and modern can coexistence in an enhanced environment. The most eye catching creation? Berluti’s trademark patina leather suit. Additional highlights were made up of Prince of Wales check, houndstooth and herringbone suits and odd jackets. This also includes an assortment of leather outerwear, weekend bags, small leather goods and trunks, in addition to a shoe care kit developed in collaboration with British luggage-manufacturer Globe-Trotter.
Dior’s Artistic Director Kim Jones payed homage to designer and stylist Judy Blame with the house’s Men’s Fall/Winter 2020-2021 collection. With a blend of ‘timeless elegance’ the collection draws on 1980’s London and one of the town’s most fabled characters, Judy Blame, who’s DIY style accessory designs are legendary. Blame, who was born Christopher Barnes, “changed his name to Judy Blame; “Judy” was a nickname given to him by designer Antony Price, and the surname “Blame” was suggested by Scarlett Cannon, a hairdresser friend.” It has been said that he selected a female name in order to bewilder others. On the subject of Blame Jones it is stated, “Her love of couture was an inspiration to us all.”
The shapes and silhouettes of pieces in the collection show fashion as a process rather than a particular outcome. In a nod to Blame’s DIY style, the Dior logo features a safety pin and the renowned Dior Oblique pattern stars in a range of beaded embroideries. Dark blues and grays excite the imagination and pleats ‘reference flou and tailoring techniques.’ Decorating patterns are displayed in immense quantities and draw inspiration from the toile de jouy motif that decorated Christian Dior’s first boutique. A new motif/pattern designed specially for the Men’s Fall/Winter 2020-2021 collection in collaboration with the Trust Judy Blame Foundation titled “Toile de Judy” was a special highlight.
Last, but certainly not least, Maison Louis Vuitton showed their extraordinary classicism coupled with freshness in their Fall Winter 2020-2021 menswear collection. Artistic Director Virgil Abloh broke free of Louis Vuitton’s popular street-wear image with ” a study of the evolving anthropology of the suit.” Abloh focuses on the silhouette, reaching beyond traditional ideas associated with the men’s suit. The designs deliver a collection that is a “symbol of craft and creativity, magnified by lionized sculptures of the artisan’s traditional tools on the catwalk.”
Images courtesy of LVMH, Featured Image Credit: © Dior
