Yohei Fukuda is one of the best Japanese bespoke shoemakers or even possibly one of the best bespoke shoemakers in the world. Creating some of the highest quality shoes on the market, he brings a classic style that makes men, myself included, lust after the opportunity to own even just one of his ultra-high quality creations. Fukuda was deeply inspired by high quality English bespoke shoe-making and was later persuaded by a friend of his to accompany him to the Tresham Institute in Northamptom, (a comparatively technical accustomed shoe-making school). Thereafter he began working for George Cleverley’s and Edward Green’s former bespoke departments for some time, until he went back to Japan in 2007 to make his own mark on the industry. After which he established himself as one of the best master bespoke shoemakers.
Yohei Fukuda is located in the neighborhood of Shibuya in central Tokyo, on the second floor of a high rise building lies his showroom and two more floors above that lie his workshop. Together with his two apprentices, he creates 60 beautifully constructed pairs a year. Fakuda’s time in England really inspired his brand, as he adapted style ques from the early 1900’s and given them a modern edge, whilst keeping the old British style and class the same.
Yohei Fakuda classifies his work into four different levels: ordering, as where each pair of shoes are created using the same basics, but with unique modifications of models and lasts. The levels are as follow:
– Master Styling (Made to Order). Select model, leather, last (classic round toe or chiseled), and specific details like the waist (bevelled or fiddle waist), heel (square, tapered, Yohei Fukuda heel which is an asymmetric variant), and more. The price for the Classic Collection models start from €2,300 (280 000 yen), and for Heritage models the price begins around €2,450 (300,000 yen). Lasted shoe trees are included.
– Master Fitting (semi-bespoke/Made to Measure). The price is the same as for the Master Styling above with additional price of around €50 (6,000 yen) for each modification that needs to be done. The total price of the order will be set after you tried on the test shoes and the modifications needed are identified. Lasted shoe trees are included (the same ones as Master Styling used for the basic lasts). No fitting is required.
– Master Scratch (limited bespoke). The standard models are still used and prices are based on the same as the Master styling, but the last is fully adapted to your individual needs. You could even say that it is bespoke in the area of fitting, MTO regarding choice of model. Here the test shoes are created and a minimal of one fitting is required. Additions of €500 (60 000 yen) for the creation of lasts, €250 for lasted shoe trees (3,000 yen), which makes for a total price of €3,000 (370,000 yen) for the Classic series, and €3,150 (390,000 yen) for the Heritage model.
– Bespoke (full bespoke). A very special and personal last is made, where you can choose any design of the model, leather, details, etc. A minimal of one fitting is required. Base price of €2,450 (300,000 yen), €500 (60,000 yen) for last manufacturing , €325 (40,000 yen) for pattern making, €250 (30,000 yen) for the shoe trees, making the total price start somewhere around €3,500 (430,000 yen).
You have two options when it comes to obtaining a pair of Yohei Fukuda shoes: One of the options is by going straight to their shop in Tokyo and purchasing a pair in person, another ways is by visiting one of Mr. Fukuda’s few trunk shows , which only take place at The Armoury in Hong Kong. Although, because such a vast amount of people are interested in his shoes there is still the possibility that Mr. Fukuda will visit parts of Europe as well as the US, but for now we can only hope that that day is soon.
When selecting details like how you wish the sole to be painted or if/how the brass nail should be put under the heel, etc. The process is extremely thorough and takes a little over an hour. In fact, a full bespoke order can take nearly 150 hours if you include the all of the measuring, last making, manufacturing of sample shoes, potential last modification and then final production. As for the delivery, Fukuda tries to keep it at six months for Master Fitting and Master Styling, or 12 months for Bespoke and Master Scratch. Unfortunatly with Fukuda’s shoes popularity on the constant rise, delivery time may be even longer than originally anticipated.
When the shoes are finished they are then placed in a fabric dressed box along with two nice shoe bags and cloth, additional shoe laces, and as an added bonus a jar of Saphir Medaille d’Or shoe cream and a tin of wax polish. The lasted shoe trees are hinged and made of obeche wood, which for the record is extremely light weight. Mr. Fukuda’s shoes are also very well polished from the get-go, with spit shine made on both the toe and heel. The sheer amount of quality and workmanship exhibited by Mr. Fakuda, is simply exceptional.
Images Courtesy of: YoheiFukuda
